Shimenawa watching is fun

The scenery the other way around with Futakami
 Mountain seen in a distance is also good

This is at Hibara Jinja shinto shrine lying on the ancient trail called Yamanobe-no-michi (the trail along the foot of the hills), Nara prefecture, the oldest trail in written history in Japan. In ancient times, Nara was mostly a large lake and trails were formed along it. Part of the trails which remain to this day is called Yamanobe-no-michi. It's nearly 20 kilometers and an easy hiking is enjoyed. This is where you can experience the DNA of Japanese sentiment, perhaps.

This rope and tassels is called shimenawa. One interesting way to make your journey unique will be to keep records of the shimenawa ropes you saw while in Japan. Since there are shrines everywhere, there are shimenawa ropes of many kinds though they look similar and have the same aura around it. 

This shrine is also called Moto-Ise, or Original Ise because it is believed that Goddess Amaterasu was here before she moved to Ise. Note: there are several places called Moto-Ise, as is often the case. 

The shrine has an attractive torii gate which looks like three gates combined. This will be another way to make your journey memorable: keep records of the torii gates you saw on the trip. 

Mitsu-torii, not seen commonly

Three-storied pagoda @ Yakushiji

West Pagoda rebuilt by NISHIOKA

Each extending roof is double-roofed so at a glance the pagoda looks like six-storied but this is a three-storied pagoda at Yakushiji temple in Nishi-no-kyo, Nara prefecture. Note: three-storied does not mean there are three floors but simply put there's the first floor and the rest is an attic where beams and pillars are combined. 

The temple has two three-storied pagodas standing in a symmetrical manner on the premises. One is from the 8th century and the other was rebuilt in 1981 supervised by late master carpenter NISHIOKA Tsunekazu whom I truly admire.

The old east pagoda will be covered for several years for restoration but the new west pagoda was what I intended to see this time. NISHIOKA had the great opportunities to rebuild two historical pagodas in Nara to try out his mastery of constructing old temple and shrine buildings. 

It seems the traditional techniques and excellent nature of wood are reevaluated and more pagodas are now being built of wood rather than concrete. 

Wood, as timber, is still alive and wooden buildings last longer if their true nature is understood by architects and carpenters in charge.

The west pagoda is currently taller than the old east pagoda, but they will be of the same height in 500 years according to NISHIOKA.

All the ginkgo leaves turned yellow

The tall one

Nishi-hongan-ji is one destination that amplifies your impression of Kyoto. You are not asked to pay for your visit and are free to enter their halls. Temple people are kind and helpful. The English brochures and books are available. It's a thriving working temple instead of just being a historical legacy for tourists. Of course, Kyoto's temples are all active including those packed with tourists. Many of them are worth visiting but this spacious open-minded temple will be good for a refreshing change.

The temple now hosts wedding ceremonies. You might be lucky enough to see a couple. I saw an international couple in traditional wedding attire and everybody there were so excited to see the newly-wed. 

There is a free temple tour that you are asked to register in advance. It's free but your contribution will be appreciated so that the temple can use it for the preservation of their cultural assets. During the tour, you are shown the areas off limits to the general public. You will see their important rooms, corridors, paintings, a Noh stage with interesting tricks (you can't see the pine tree painted on the backboard of the stage first but you see it once you moved to some point - let me make this a secret). Photography is not allowed so you just have to see and remember them well. But that would not be so bad, focusing on seeing without being distracted by anything else. It is done in Japanese but a knowledgeable guide can guide you well in accordance with the tour progress. Count me as one of the knowledgeable guides. 

They have two huge ginkgo trees. One is very tall; the other is not tall but unique because its branches look like roots spreading in the air. Ginkgo trees contain lots of water and many anecdotes remain all across the country that they saved the temples and houses behind. Here too it is believed that this shorter tree spewed out water and put out a fire.  

                                                     Here's the one.

Rice paddy on the premises of Oyamazumi Jinja

The shimanami scenic sea route has lots more to offer besides cycling. Having said that, it must be very special to ride a bike and visit the attractive places on the route, or rather off the beaten path, away from the cycling route directly linking Hiroshima (Honshu side) and Ehime (Shikoku side).

This is part of the Oyamazumi Jinja Shinto shrine in Omishima island. Some thirty minutes’ pedaling from the Tatara Grand Bridge connecting Omishima and Ikuchijima. This shrine has a small patch of rice field. The rice is already harvested as you can see. In front of the hall in the photo is held an interesting and rather humorous ritual biannually in spring and fall: Sumo bouts are fought between a human and a numen of rice grain. They compete three times and always the spirit wins. This is like a pre-celebration of good harvest.

The Records of Ancient Matters (Kojiki), a Japanese mythological history book, does not specify the gender of Oyamazumi deity but another old book writes the deity is female but another says male. Whoever he or she is, the deity has been revered by all, including commoners, warriors, and nobles. 

Green fresh ball of cryptomeria @ Fukubijin, saijo

A month has already passed since the Sake Festival, the biggest annual event in saijo, was celebrated. The first batch of saijo's sake must be ready, because Fukubijin has this green ball hanging in one of their buildings.

When their first batch of sake is ready, breweries hang a large green ball made of cryptomeria branches. It's a sign to tell the public that their sake of the year has been brewed and pressed, almost ready to be enjoyed.  They will continue their brewing and more sake will come and the sake in the tank will settle before being shipped. The green ball will gradually turn brown, which will tell you the sake is maturing and give a sense of transition.  

Toyo Ito's message for the future

one of the many messages on the walls and ceilings

I took advantage of a fine autumn day and went by car to the TIMA or Toyo Ito Museum of Architecture again. I wanted to see the exhibits concerning the project called "home-for-all" for Tohoku that Ito has got involved deeply.

Before going to that section, I read almost all the messages and quotations of architects and others printed on the geometric walls of the museum.

Here's one of Ito's messages:

Future communities have to be rebuilt on the foundations of the lost houses

Memories have to be handed down

Like grass and trees sprout out on the leveled land

New pillars will rise on the former foundations

Seeking for powerful, brighter communities of the future

Two of some 260 islands off Matsushima

Nio Island

There are some 260 islands and islets around Matsushima Bay. People named all of them. Let me post two of the islands. Both are seen while boarding a pleasure boat. 

Nio Island, people thought, looked like a deva king (nio) smoking a cigar.

Bell Island was named so because the waves make a bell-like sound when they hit the four openings formed by abrasive action.

A boat ride should be fun when you tour Matsushima. Zuiganji Temple near the pier is grand but for the time being, the grandest part of the temple is off limits due to preservation work until around March, 2018. However, the temple fore grounds should be appreciated and is access-free. Even ten minute's visit can give you a somewhat solemn, ascetic atmosphere from old days.

Bell Island