Arte Piazza Bibai

Arte Piazza Bibai is stone sculptor YASUDA Kan’s creation.

Once there stood an elementary school. Most were lost as Bibai lost its edge as a coal mining community. Fortunately, one school building and a gymnasium were saved from dismantling and now function as artistic facilities at Arte Piazza. The first floor of the former school building even serves as a kindergarten, fully rehabilitated and getting more children due to its serene, friendly and artistic environment YASUDA created.


Enjoy some of the photos taken on September 12, 2009 when I joined the day tour to Moere Numa Park and Arte Piazza.

Here you see a former school building. Schools have to be where children's heart and mind grow. Young people deserve well-designed school buildings and surroundings.

Isamu NOGUCHI & Moere

The rooftop of the GLASS PYRAMID

This article first written in September 2009 and compiled in September 2011


Isamu Noguchi designed the railings of the two peace bridges in the city of Hiroshima. His Japanese father worked as a professor at the university in Tokyo I graduated from. And above all, what he did was very attractive to me, especially the so-called earthworks of his. He once said, "One day I had a vision: I saw the Earth as sculpture." 

Due to these facts, Noguchi’s name has always been in my mind. So when I first came across a bit of information about Moere Numa Park, which I instantly knew I would love, I was convinced that someday I should be there. I do not exactly remember my first encounter with Moere but it should have been about ten years ago.

For many reasons, I couldn’t make it up to now but I gratefully feel that was destined that way. The grand opening of the park was in 2005. If I had been there earlier than that, I could have missed some of the works “sculpted” on the earth of the park. The time was just right and Mother Nature treated me kindly, providing the perfect weather.

Noguchi first came to Sapporo, Hokkaido on March 30, 1988. He was already at an advanced age of 83. He was shown three candidate locations suggested by the city of Sapporo for the planned grand park. One of them was a garbage dump site which the city had already started part of the transformation into a large spacious park. The city started the groundwork in 1982. Fortunately, however, when Noguchi saw the site, it was still barren and garbage was flying in the wind. No wonder because 2.7 million tons of garbage was brought in before the waste treatment plant in Moere Numa was finally closed in 1990.

In a sense, the land had not been tampered by anyone (except by the general public who produced the garbage) and it had to be infused with vision.

I believe that was much better than those already formed and shaped and nicely prepared in accordance with mediocre plans and designs.

Moere was what Noguchi showed keen interest in.

It’s never easy to give birth to any sort of things. But Noguchi was quick to come up with the ideas. In November, 1988, he presented the final master plan for the park.

When he had a meeting with the man who later became the director of the completed park in November, he showed the models of the park and the Black Slide Mantra for Odori Park in downtown Sapporo and jokingly said, something like “Now you can do without me.” This meeting turned out to be the last.

He passed away of pneumonia on December 30, 1988, leaving the master plans for the park and the Black Slide Mantra. He was 84.

Moere Numa Park is 189 hectares (467 acres) in area, larger than half the size of Central Park in NYC.

Dreamy MOERE NUMA PARK

This article first written in September 2009 and compiled in September 2011

Play Mountain

Moere Numa Park in the suburbs of Sapporo, Hokkaido has always been in my heart for the last ten years. The time has come; I had to go; and it was the right move. 

A  short TV program featuring Arte Piazza Bibai, lying about one-hour-drive away from Sapporo, made me convinced that I had to go to Hokkaido. I somewhat knew that it was time to finally go to Moere. The combination of Moere and Arte seemed just right and made sense to me.

Then the wonderful thing happened. I checked the Arte web site to find that a day tour to Moere and Arte was available soon and the tour was set only one time.

I called the agency, made a reservation, and started other arrangements like flight between Hiroshima and Hokkaido, accommodations, etc.

Lots to write, but first, look at the pictures. The stories will come much later. I just need to show you some of the pictures without any further delay.

Let me start with PLAY MOUNTAIN. The 30-meter-high mountain cheerfully attracts you and you'll feel you are free of any scale.

Play Mountain & Tetra Mound 

Music Shell & Play Mountain

Here's Moere Beach and Moere Mountain in Moere Numa Park. Between them is a larch grove making the Sea Fountain invisible from outside.

The beach has ripples just like a calm friendly sea. A special gift to children living in Sapporo where real sea is far away.

Underneath the mountain is simply garbage. Which is inevitably produced in big cities. A mountain of garbage is now transformed into a small grassy hill, 62 meters high and recognized as an authentic mountain for the government-authorized map.

Moere Mountain from a different angle

If you come from the Sapporo area, Moere Mountain is the first you sea as a sign of the park. Completed and opened to the public in 2004, the mountain now looks very natural and part of the landscape. Sixty two meters high. Try climbing it. The mountain is very inviting.

Glassy Pyramid

This pyramid is a combination of a quadratic prism and a quadrangle. The structure gives you a different impression depending on from which side you see.

Inside of the GLASS PYRAMID. The 1st floor.

Sea Fountain

Sapporo does not face the sea. So the SEA FOUNTAIN is another gift to the Sapporo citizens. The fountain has shows, with pumps and motors operating under the fountain bowl, some of which last for 15-minute and the rest of which for 45 minutes.

The longer program creates waves in the center bowl.

A larch grove surrounds the fountain, hiding it from its neighborhood.

Eight Saijo sake breweries near the railroad station

The red roundish stamp on the smaller one images a ceder ball hanging at breweries;
the final stamp you get when you are finished with your walking rally.

See nine stamps we got!

The first ART in Sakagura event is now being held until September 25, 2011. A lot of fun to see the artworks done by local college students displayed in the areas of the sake factories that are usually off limits. They are planning to make this event annual. Good job!


The flyer for the event is well-done, carrying unaffected, friendly, artistic atmosphere. My friend and I loved the nine seals used for the stamp rally. We happily walked collecting stamps at nine locations around the sake factories. Start with Stamp 01 and collect the rest and you are given nine animated images depicting sake making in sequence.


Click and see the flyer and signs for the event. Pretty good.




Nine sake breweries in Saijo, Higashi-hiroshima joined hands under the collective brand name, Saijo Sake, with the slogan, Taste Japan.


Eight of them have their factories and offices near JR Saijo Station, making your stroll into the Sakagura Dori (Sake Brewery Street) simple and easy.


How sake is made, the history and development, etc. are all interesting topics but once at the street, please taste Japan, which means not only sipping sake but also using all your senses to experience the local magic. You might slightly smell fragrant sake at each brewery though this year's sake making has not started yet, which I thought was very special.


Here let me give you a quick summary of the eight breweries to encourage you to visit all of them. If you'd like to buy bottled sake, I recommend you do it after you've visited them all. I believe you do not want to carry the bottles around while enjoying your walk. You can easily go back as the sake brewery zone is not that large. The breweries are listed in the model walking course.


1. KAMOTSURU
The largest in the area; well-established; large premises good for photo taking; can casually taste several kinds of sake as well as sake-making water in the former sake making building.


2. FUKUBIJIN
Founded and adopted the modern corporation system for the first time in the sake industry in 1917; once served as a sake-making school; has the tallest chimney (27 meters).


3. KAMOIZUMI
Famous for the junmai ginjo (refined pure rice sake) with a tint of gold due to no carbon filtering; Shusenkan, which accommodates a sake cafe/shop (sake cosmetics/soap, sake goods, their sake, sake sweets, etc on sale), sake library (you can sit down and take a rest free of charge), and others, is open on the weekend and holidays; at the sake library, the KAMOIZUMI sake introduction video, narrated in English, can be watched freely. It lasts about 25 minutes. One of the three narrators was no other than me to reduce the video production cost. The translation was done by me helped by the other two narrators who happened to be both Canadians.


4. KIREI
Tastes beautifully dry and clear; the store carries interesting food (udon noodle for example), snacks and goods besides sake; ladies, sometimes gentlemen, are always friendly and smiley; has a special kind only sold at their brewery not at other outlets; couldn't help buying one. Ignoring the advice I gave to you, my friend and I bought a bottle and carried it around. Later we bought more at other breweries. Oops.


5. SAIJOTSURU
Around this time of the walk, my friend and I had to admit that ladies from the brewery families are all beautiful with smooth skin and gentle attitudes. The Sakagura environment, where invisible microbes live, must be doing a magic; a small brewery faithfully following their traditional sake making method; the only one that still uses the chimney; the other 14 chimneys standing in the neighborhood are now symbolic and not practical; awarded by the Monde Selection Association quite a number of times; their Shinzui sake is really good.


6. HAKUBOTAN
Has three sake factories standing straight in line; picturesque but utility lines bother the scene, which often happens in Japan; a large established company.


7. SANYOTSURU 
Operates several sake pubs in Hiroshima and Tokyo; has a Japanese cuisine restaurant deep inside.


8. KAMOKI
Has an elegant cafe/store; their coffee and legendary tube cake (pour some sake served with the cake) is tasty.


No time to lose but to go! Right? If you are still wondering, take a look at the photos in my picasa album. Or visit the web site of Saijo Sake Brewers Association. You'll be there tomorrow, having a nice time, I bet.

Chiran samurai gardens, Kagoshima, Kyushu

Chiran samurai residence street

Nice podocarpus and tea tree hedges; elegantly curved streets always swept clean; seven gardens from the Edo period open to the public; Chiran tea served at the Mori garden is tasty. The lantern that can be transformed into an umbrella or even a weapon is pretty and clever. This used to be a samurai town where they disciplined themselves and farmed when not on duty. Sometimes they accompanied their lord to Kyoto, who was entrusted Chiran by the Shimazu lord who reigned the whole Satsuma or present Kagoshima Prefecture. That's the way they learned Kyoto culture and first class gardens with aesthetic use of local tastes were made.

The Mori garden; the other six are dry landscape gardens.

The lady at a small store at the central parking lot is always friendly and welcoming visitors. Love the place and people.

Majestic Kumamoto Castle in Kumamoto, Kyushu

The central compound where the castle towers soar

The origin of the castle goes back to the middle of the 15th century when fortifications were made on the hill; then expanded and finally in 1588 KATO Kiyomasa, a trusted vassal of TOYOTOMI Hideyoshi (the first ruler all over Japan), was dispatched to the early incarnation of Kumamoto Castle and built this grand, extremely fortified castle. The castle complex consisted of a large castle tower, a small castle tower, 49 turrets, 18 turret gates, and 29 smaller gates. The Honmaru Goten Palace was completed in 1610.

The Kato clan, however, was ousted in 1632 by the Tokugawa shogunate and replaced by the Hosokawa who reigned for 239 years, the rest of the Edo period. One of the Hosokawa descendants became prime minister of Japan but didn’t last long as has been often the case with other successive prime ministers. Ugh.

Most of the castle buildings were mysteriously burned down three days before the castle was besieged and attacked by the disaffected former samurai members from Satsuma in 1877. This is part of the very complicated and dramatic history of Bakumatsu (toward the dismantling of the Tokugawa shogunate) and the beginning of the new government, Meiji.

The castle still retains 13 original buildings including remarkable Uto-yagura turret, and most of the important castle buildings are now reconstructed.

Some samurai members stand by for you. They talk like samurais but are happy to be photographed with you. 

And this spring, the fun facility Josai-kan was completed, located at the foot of the hill. There's Wakuwaku-za on the Josai-kan premises, a sort of fun museum, where you can wear costumes from the samurai era.

See my picasa album for more fun.

Shokun-no-ma in the grand Palace

Yawata Wetland in early fall

Part of the wetland

Finally I managed to go back to the wetland and walked through it. It only took 1 hour and 35 minutes from our house in Higashi Hiroshima to the wetland by car but took me some months to visit again; this time with my hubby. 


The air was crisp, cool, and refreshing. The apples we bought at the stand next to the Kogen no Shizenkan (Visitor Center) gave us a season's taste. 500 yen for four average sized apples. 


The Yawata Wetland, Kita Hiroshima, Hiroshima is on a high plateau, about 800 meters above sea level. It's good anytime but will be a life savor when you want to escape from summer heat. But in winter, the climate around there is harsh. However, I heard you can see diamond dusts which only form in very cold locations like some part of Hokkaido, Japan. 

Bear Alert !

Named Setsureisui or Snow Spirit Water

There's especially tasty spring water coming out of the nearby mountain Garyu-san, meaning the lying dragon mountain. We took an easy way and went up there by car, though the easy way was narrow and winding. At the parking lot near the summit, there's a water stand where cold, crystal-clear water constantly runs from two faucets. 

Alnus trees, perhaps, standing along the road

We climbed for 10 to 15 minutes to the summit but didn't get no good command of the surrounding scenery. And the path could be slippery and relatively steep. Perhaps you should try the mountain with someone who knows a good route from the mountain foot along which local beach trees are enjoyed. It will be like bathing in the forest full of minus ions. 

Wild flowers in the wetland

We dropped by a local Onsen place. Refreshing but you need a car and some sort of navigation system (in our case iPhone as our car does not navigate us) to move around in Kita Hiroshima. But no traffic jam at all. (Often no one to ask for directions.)


A different kind of beauty from those enjoyed along the Inland Sea. Loved it dearly.

Toyo Ito Museum of Architecture, Imabari, on the island of Omishima

Steel Hut

This is a brand new museum that opened in August, 2011. It showcases Ito's architecture, but at the same time, it's where architectural workshops are held for children and young architects.  Along with the other two museums nearby, it forms a museum trio. 


This museum and the Tokoro Museum are close to each other and accessible from one to the other on foot. 


The other museum, the Ken Iwata Mother and Child Museum, is a bit away, about five minutes' drive from the other two. This museum was also designed by ITO. It's a circular structure without ceilings, enclosing the sculptures displayed inside.

Mother and Child Museum

The Mother and Child Museum stands on the premises of a former good old elementary school converted into accommodations. As a whole, the place creates a memory-evoking atmosphere.

Ito's museum consists of the ship-resembling Steel Hut mainly for exhibits and the Silver Hut primarily for workshops and research activities. The Silver Hut, originally built in 1984 and once standing in Tokyo as Ito's residence, was recreated here, some 700 km away from its original location.

Silver Hut interior

Silver Hut open terrace

Tokoro Museum terrace

The nearby Tokoro Museum is very pleasant, making the best and clever use of the slope running down to the sea. And its contemporary collections are fun. Free coffee, though instant type, on the open terrace is much appreciated.

Ito's museum opened about five months after the devastating earthquake ravaged the northeastern part of Japan on March 11. Sendai City was gravely affected. In Sendai, one of Ito's representing works, the Sendai Mediatheque, stands. It had just celebrated the tenth anniversary, having served as an attractive multipurpose facility for all ages and all walks of life, when the earthquake and ensuing Tsunami crippled the city. With some of its ceilings falling, It had to be closed for two months. 

Ito says in a book entitled "A see-worthy vessel":

After a ten-year voyage, the Mediatheque was temporarily placed in dry-dock, but now it is setting sail once again, ready to serve anew as a vessel for everyone. As a "see-worthy vessel," the Toyo Ito Museum of Architecture, Imabari is embarking on its own voyage, carrying a cargo of architectural visions of buildings and cities everywhere, past, present, and future.

Kirishima Open-Air Museum, Kagoshima

Obviously Kusama's

I wanted to check this place out because works by KUSAMA Yayoi, Richard LONG, MIYAJIMA Tatsuo, AOKI Noe, ONO Yoko, Isamu NOGUCHI, etc. are displayed there. And it's good to go to highlands in summer for cooling down. 


Seems to be an ideal location for taking your children. The nature is beautiful and kids can play in the unaffected yet artistic atmosphere.

Not just one. They stand in a forest.

You are special !

Aso is accessible by train and bus

If you love to travel by train, Kyushu is one good destination that you can enjoy attractive trains. 


Aso is accessible by taking a train at Kumamoto Station. Some of the trains go straight to Aso without transfer; many others need transfer at Higo-otsu but on the same platform. Roughly takes 1.5 hours and costs 1080 yen. Not bad. There's a charming limited express called Kyushu Odan Tokkyu, meaning the Trans-Kyushu Limited Express. Taking 1hour and 13 minutes, the train takes you from Kumamoto to Aso. For this you need extra 900 yen.

There should be bus services taking you to higher places of Mt. Aso. I loved staying at a pension located higher up. Very refreshing. 


Instead of getting off at Aso, you can try Miyaji, six-min-train ride away from Aso. Walk 15 to 20 minutes from the station and you are arriving at Aso Shrine and its neighborhood. Water is good here as is often the case in many parts of Kumamoto. 


Aso Shrine must have originated from mountain worship in ancient times. People felt awesome about explosive Mt. Aso, which has been harsh and generous at the same time. That's how mother nature should be in this country and you naturally feel humble when embraced by this type of surroundings. 


The approach to the shrine does not lead perpendicularly to the shrine buildings but in parallel with the lined up halls. The approach rather looks like leading to Mt. Aso and you will be impressed by the mountain seen from the precincts.


Local kids are often around the shrine, making the area friendly and peaceful. 


On the premises stand some interesting objects such as a wishing stone (you rub it and make a wish), a love pine tree (you and your significant other go around the tree in opposite directions; when you meet you two pray for your eternal love; young couples feel like kissing there), and a scale you can take a measurement of your child's height (my fun loving guests pretended that their mug shots were taken; very funny).


Aso's drinking water and bathing water are both good. You will be cleansed from inside and outside. Good deal, isn't it?

See the water welling from Shirakawa Suigen fountainhead

Fortunately I recovered a video clip I took when I went to the fountainhead in Minami Aso. Here it is. Enjoy the blessing from Mother Nature. Also see the blog article about this fountainhead I wrote several articles back for more info.

Aso's kawaii mountain: Komeduka

Kawaii meaning pretty in Japanese represents a significant part of Japanese pop culture. 


This is a KAWAII mountain in the Aso Caldera, Kumamoto Prefecture. Iron fences block the approach to the mountain and that's the nearest point you can go. You are not allowed to climb it due to protection of its vegetation. 

It's one of the landmarks of Aso and impossible to miss. Its top is concave as if Aso God had scooped rice grains from a heap of the harvest and generously given it to the poor.


The mountain worship must be one of the oldest forms of Japanese faith systems. Naturally people feel awesome, looking the grand Aso Mountains and alike. Nearby Kirishima Mountains also have many celestial mythological stories.


The surrounding area is beautifully grassy. In fall, there must be a lot of silver grass dancing in the wind.


Aso is beautiful in every season. Now that we've found a place where we can stay with our cat, we'll be back in different times of the year to appreciate the changing seasons and the circle of life.