WATER GARDEN "MIZUNIWA"

reflection in the water at MIZUNIWA garden

Go there before you die. 

I shouldn't wait if I managed to go to the places on my wish list. Of course you just cannot go to such places today but I made it a rule not to wait too long because the time given to me is one day less every day. 

This winter is unusually warm caused by global warming, I believe. But this troublesome issue at least gave me an opportunity to go to the natural but unusual Mizuniwa garden. 

On February 20, 2020, I was there. 

I could make one day off on that day and had been thinking that I would go if there was no snow. But usually Nasu where the garden lies is too snowy in February. Amazingly there was only one snowy day that caused the garden covered with snow this winter. 

I called the Art Biotop a few times before I made a reservation two days before my visit. At that time I was convinced that there would be no snow and I would be able to walk in the garden.

I did. I was not surprised by the beauty because I knew it. I just had to be there to absorb the experience. And I did.

On July 1, 2020, they are opening their additional accommodations designed by BAN Shigeru, one of my favorite architects. 

A summer visit with a overnight stay will be good. 

I added the hotel to my wish list.

Onomichi has old and new

Historical Onomichi with the pagoda of Ten-nei-ji temple

Once in a while I have a fad about this port town. It happened already three times and will come back constantly. 

The first should have been about 15 years ago when my friends and I learned the basics of Onomich; the second was in 2011 when nobody came to Japan after the disastrous earthquakes and Tsunami. my friends and I were riding a bike and making up cycling routes by ourselves; the third is happening now and I'm seeing the town from many perspectives including stores, cafes, and restaurants run by the long-time residents and the new comers. The new Onomichi City Hall is another charming addition to the area.

The first time when my friends and I came to Onomichi a number of times in total introduced to us the orthodox Onomichi where 25 major temples and many small shrines lined the alleys on the slopes. We were amazed by how charming and even mystic these alleys were. We also learned how skillful Onomichi masons were by spotting what they made such as stone lanterns or statues. We came to know how Onomich thrived as a significant port town and how wealthy merchants and important samurai warrior members contributed to the creation of this temple town by building them and patronizing them over time. 

The fake castle tower on top of the hill built by the chairman of the Onomichi chamber of commerce and industry in 1964 will be finally torn down soon. I'm so glad about it because Onomichi was not a castle town and does not have to be. There are many former castle towns but there's just one Onomichi which thrived with merchants and some important samurai members from the middle age of Japan. 

The town has been known as the town of slopes where peoples' houses stand. It started after the introduction of the railway to Onomichi in 1891. The modern railway cut through the premises of shrines and temples and an interesting thing happened - unfortunate for some of the temples and shrines whose  grounds were divided into two by the railway. You will see local trains running by right in front of you from some of the temple gates or stone stairs leading to the temples. It's an interesting image symbolizing the modernization Onomichi had to go through. And people began to live on the slopes where only shrines and temples stood before. Now the private houses, shrines, and temples are connected by alleys and slopes, making the town one big maze.  

The town now is a gateway to the Shimanami Scenic Sea Route on which you can walk or ride a bike. The route connecting Honshu and Shikoku over the sea with seven bridges is now one of the most SACRED cycling routes for the bike riders. 

The town is unique as it is. It has old and new. It hosts young people who discovered this town and old members who have lived here for long. You will be sure to talked to by an old local lady if you look curious about the town or look lost. They believe you don't know how you can go to your destinations in mind. It's easy to get lost in Onomichi. You will love it.

Just like any other small cities and towns and villages, Onomichi has suffered from depopulation and lack of strong economy but young people are coming back or coming in. Something about Onomichi attracts these youth and me though I'm not that young.

In this article is introduced this store where Onomichi vintage jeans are on sale. The young founders did not start this to make money but did this to make the town more attractive and cheerful and a happy place for the residents. 

Mostly locals got involved to make new jeans made in the BINGO area that Onomichi belongs to used and old. Locals from every rank and file wear the BINGO jeans for about a year under the periodical check and clean-ups by the store. The tag attached to respective jeans tells the occupation of the original wearer. Accordingly the jeans transformed themselves over a year.

The store is doing well, sustaining itself. What an idea they had!!

Bingo jeans on display

The right is the jeans store and the left a new cafe where lemonade and coffee are served.