Ando's Awaji Yume Butai

This is a photo from my day trip to the island of Awaji-shima, the first island created by a mythological deity couple of Isanagi and Izanami in ancient times, when there were only deities and no humanity and when Japan was about to be created.


Near Ando's Water Temle stands another of his work, rather a big one, named Awaji-Yumebutai meaning Awaji Dream Stage. It's a resort complex with a hotel, restaurants, shops, an international conference center, a green house named "The Miracle Planet Museum of Plants" and of course a dream world by Ando's architecture. 


The site was once an abandoned quarry, looking dismal, but was transformed into an exquisite Ando world where natural resilience and human engineering have restored the environment. 


The England soccer team Beckham once belonged to stayed at the hotel here, the Westin Awaji Island.

Water Temple, step by step

To water temple:

Honpuku-ji or popularly called Water Temple is on the island of Awaji-shima. The main and meeting halls were designed by ANDO. 

In the photo is the Akashi Strait Grand Bridge, the longest suspension bridge in the world completed in 1998. It was supposed to be 3,910 meters long. However, it stretched by one meter due to ground strain caused by the extraordinary Hanshin-Awaji Earthquake on January 17, 1995. It connects KOBE, Honshu and AWAJI-SHIMA, an island between Honshu and Shikoku. Here we are, already on the island side. 

In front of the water temple:

Honpuku-ji is said to have been established toward the end of the Heian period (794-1185). The temple worships Yakushi Buddha, the Buddha of Medicine. Yakushi is almost all the time flanked by Gekko and Nikko Bodhisattvas, Gekko meaning the moonlight and Nikko sunlight. They take turns and protect you gingerly during the day and night. Here, too, the two Bodhisattvas serve Yakushi, though the three images are usually kept hidden and you cannot see the originals. 

The temple belongs to the Shingon sect founded by Kukai (literally meaning Sky and Ocean), a major esoteric Buddhism sect in Japan from the 9th century. His temples attract lots of pilgrims even though they are not always Shingon members in a strict sense of the word. In spring, many pilgrims come, tinkling their bells held in their hands. The sound is a reminder of the advent of warm spring.

Approach:

This path is on the right of the temple front. You see a blue sign in a distance, saying 水御堂 or water sanctuary hall.

Wall:

You are approaching the white concrete wall separating the secular and the spiritual. The wall is not imposing, rather friendly and gentle. Instead of denying your entry, the square opening in the wall invites you inward.

Inside the outer wall

A ray of light:

The light coming from afar.

Down you go:

In the middle of the lotus pond is an passageway to the main hall. The pond itself looks like a lotus leaf and you are descending down into the lotus itself.

Light from Pure Land:

Now in the basement. The circular corridor surrounding the round inner hall. The light is coming in from the west. It was 3:00pm. At the sunset, more light comes in turning the space completely vermillion.

Back to where you belong:

Now we'll go back to the world of white light.

Lotus pond:

Lotus and water lily will bloom in early summer. Their flowers have serene beauty and their petals are pure, though they come out of muddy ponds.

Inari Shrine:

Let us pass through a red gate called Torii seen in the right of the photo, and drop by at a Inari shrine on the grounds of the temple. It's common to have a Shinto shrine on the temple grounds and vice versa. The Meiji government tried to put an end to that practice to use Shinto as a national religion. They failed in the end and I'm happy about that.

Stone lantern and rocks:

They quietly stand here, next to a small Inari Shrine. They are history themselves.

I was all alone when walking on the premises of the temple. Left alone and so happy. Worth coming, taking 3 hours by car from my place in Hiroshima. One unforgettable day.

Water Temple, architectural data and anecdotes

Architectural Data 
Designed by: ANDO and his office, Tadao Ando Architect & Associates 
Completed on: September 14, 1991 
Site area: 2990.75m² 
Building area: 859.47m² 
Total floor area: 417.16m² 
Structure: RC 
Level: 1st level basement 

Architectural Anecdotes 
Ando was contacted via a representative of the temple parishioners who had known him before. It was Ando’s first commission to design Buddhist architecture. From the beginning, he had no intention whatsoever to dwell on the well-established tradition and formats. Rather he was keen on how to be free from the big majestic roof telling how important the building was. He was thinking of a temple with a flat roof, an idea coming from modernism architecture. “If the buildings had to be reproduced as they were based on the stereotype of the Buddhist architecture, we would not be needed here,” Ando said. The parishioner representative agreed. They talked, “We’ll use contemporary sensitivity and technology to create an attractive temple.” 

Ando had “water” in mind as a clue and was aware of many temples surrounded by or on the water but he didn’t come across temples built below the water. Then he thought of a hall with a lotus pond cocooning the divinity and all sentient beings together. What he wanted to provide was the spatial experience by approaching and visiting the hall below the lotus pond instead of the imposing roofs themselves.

Everybody, the head priest and the parishioners, resisted Ando’s idea first. They couldn’t think of a temple without the typical roof. But a roshi of Daitoku-ji in Kyoto approved Ando’s idea and encouraged him to realize it. He thought it was wonderful to go physically into the lotus, a principle of Buddhism. Then the things turned out to be very easy and smooth. 

Below the rooftop oval lotus pond lies a main hall surrounded by a circular corridor as well as a meeting hall (off limits to ordinary visitors). The lattice window in the corridor faces west, allowing the afternoon sunlight coming in. The light is designed to come into the inner chamber where the divinity is enshrined. The sanctuary receives the light from behind the enshrined images and they look like they are emitting light themselves. The light might have traveled from the west pure land of Buddhism. For a moment in the evening, the space is colored sheer vermillion, almost a manifestation of the pure land here in the human world. 

The main hall is divided into an inner and an outer chamber, following the Shingon’s traditional way of arranging the room. This traditional layout is related to the spiritual field, which Ando wanted to pay respect to. 

The web site below has beautiful pictures of the lotus and water lily. Take a look if you please. 
http://kobe-mari.maxs.jp/awaji_city/honpukuji.htm 

Also located on Awaji-shima not far from the Water Temple is Awaji Yumebutai, a large complex of a hotel, conference center, chapel, gardens, restaurants, outdoor auditorium and green houses, designed by Ando. 

The Cloud over an Upward Slope Museum

The Cloud over an Upward Slope Museum, designed by ANDO, was completed in 2006. It stands in the city of Matsuyama, Ehime Prefecture, Shikoku. The city is noted for its 3000-year-old Dogo Onsen in the Dogo district and Matsuyama Castle on Katsuyama Hill in the center of the city. It's a unique triangular building fitted with glass panels called the glass curtain wallson its western side. The glass reflects the surrounding scenery and the architecture blends in the environment. 

The museum showcases three enterprising figures from Matsuyama who lived out the Meiji period when Japan, finally awoken from its long self-imposed hibernation in the Edo period, was making the utmost effort to be recognized as a first-rate nation and attain an equal status with western countries. Japan pursued the cloud over an upward slope, thinking they would be able to catch up with the international society once they've reached the cloud. 

There are no English explanations available inside the museum. Therefore, it will not be worth trying the exhibits to look for information for non-Japanese. 
Architecturally, however, it’s fun to see the interior. Also, you are free to look around at the exterior and take pictures. 

The three renowned Japanese from Matsuyama, featured by the museum, the AKIYAMA brothers and MASAOKA Shiki, are interesting to know about. Through them, you’ll feel the dynamism of Meiji and see how young ambitious talents tried to make a difference at the dawn of modern Japan and achieve personal success.

AKIYAMA Yoshifuru [1859 to 1930] is credited with being the father of the Japanese Cavalry. While his younger brother, Saneyuki [1868-1918], excelled in naval tactics. When Saneyuki was born, the family already had too many children and was not well off. The parents hinted that they would give up the baby to a temple but ten-year-old Yoshifuru protested that he was going to make a lot of money in no time and that the bills he would get would be equal to the thickness of Tofu. 

MASAOKA Shiki [1867-1902] single-handedly revolutionized old Japanese poetry, making it relevant to contemporary Japan. NATSUME Soseki [1867-1916], one of the most renowned Japanese novelists from the Meiji period, was born in 1867, the same year as Shiki. They were born just before the advent of Meiji. They shared the room in Matsuyama for 52 days in 1895 when Soseki was working as an English teacher at a local school. Shiki came back to Matsuyama for health reason and Soseki let him live with him. 

Young illuminators like them lived the age of fledging Japan called Meiji [1868-1912].


See more of Ando's works on my previous blog site (category: Ando's architecture).

Observatory overlooking the Bridges & the Inland Sea

Felt special about this architecture designed by KUMA Kengo. But not well maintained by the municipal government, I suppose. The value of this structure has to be understood by those in charge. Should organize a clean-up session and ask architecture lovers to come over to participate in it with some special incentive, perhaps.

The view is spectacular. The sun set must be enchanting.

Recently desiginated one of the Lovers' Sanctuaries by some NPO. The lovers leave a lock on which they write their names and some sort of pledge (we'll be together forever ...). The locks hang on the railings. Looks a little bit spooky.

Located at a vintage point to see the Kurushima Strait Grand Bridges on the Shimanami Scenic Route, which connects Honshu main island and Shikoku island.

Lovers left locks on the railings, wishing for their lasting relationship.

This article first appeared on my previous blog site on June 29, 2010 and was edited slightly.

Bunny @ Okuno-shima

This cute littile guy lives on the island of Okuno-shima. I wanted to video-tape for a longer time but I happened to meet a gentleman from Shiga Pref. staying at a hotel (only one in fact) on the island when I was hiking down toward the port. 

He said he and his wife took local trains, taking neary half a day to come to the island from their home in Omi Hachiman (farther than Osaka or Kyoto from Hiroshima). I asked how much and he kindly let me know that he paid a little over 5000 yen a person and added he and his wife saw what they didn't manage to see if they had only taken Shinkansen, the fastest way to come here.

We talked and had a good time but I didn't film the cute islanders enough. Well I will be back. After all I live less than one hour away from Tadanoumi Port where boats leave for the island. What's more, free parking lots are available at the port. 

Now enjoy the video.

One day in Peace Park

   Just look at this.

Let me proudly present to you Kimi the composed dog and Non the raccoon on the guard.

One morning in Peace Park, a little after we heard the chime from Peace Clock Tower standing tall in the corner of Peace Park go off at 8:15, Miki and I happened to see them.

We talked to the caretakers of the two and were granted permission to take photos of these lovable visitors to the park.

We were told that they walk in the park every day but usually come earlier.

So we were extra lucky being able to see them! This seems to be a gift bestowed upon us who woke up very early to come to Peace Park quite early to attend to the good cause we were in charge on that day.

Here's what I'd like to recommend:
Come to the park at 7:00 in the morning. Try finding Kimi and Non walking in the park while visiting some of the momuments (study them in advance), take a nice quiet walk in the park and hear the chime at 8:15. At 8:30, the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum is open. Visit the museum any time after that.

Also, visit the memorial hall in the park too.

That way, you might find your early morning filled with love and peace.

Oh, just for your information, my friend Miki is orthograde, meaning she's not a dog or raccoon but a human.

PS
This article was transferred from my previous blog site. Originally written on September 7, 2010