Teshima in revival

The entire articles I wrote and will write about the Setouchi islands are dedicated to my friend Marie, an inspiring artist and human being, who passed away on January 9, 2011.

A black porgy made of garbage by Yodogawa Technique, sending out and greeting ships at Uno Port.
From Uno Port, you can go to Naoshima and Teshima on different boats.

Teshima is a middle-sized island located in the eastern part of the Seto Inland Sea with the population of approximately 1100. The population has been decreasing as is often the case for the rest of the Japanese islands.

I love this usually quiet and lovely island especially because I instinctively loved the islanders and they treated me so kindly, making me feel that I live in a world full of caring.

When Japan’s economy was rapidly developing in the 1960s and onward, the Seto Inland Sea area was industrialized in a very large scale, causing environmental pollution. Later the environmental issues were tackled and the sea has been cleaned up. But how the islands should thrive with its diminishing populations has remained a big issue.

Then came the project for Naoshima. Benesse Art Site Naoshima and the Naoshima Fukutake Art Museum Foundation have been the driving forces of the project.

Taking more than 20 years, starting with children’s summer camps on the island, the island has established its unique status as an island of art and nature blending and sometimes competing with each other for their aesthetic significance. The evolution has stimulated the island and islanders, with something new introduced and something old recognized again.

Then Inujima has been experimented with the Seirensho art project which holds six artworks collectively titled “Hero Dry Cell” displayed in the establishment designed by architect SANBUICHI Hiroshi on the premises of an abandoned copper refinery which has been preserved as Industrial Modernization Heritage. See the past Inujima articles if you please.

Last year on October 17, Teshima Art Museum opened to the public when the Setouchi International Art Festival was being held. Not conventional at all, with architecture, art, and surroundings undividable. This museum cannot be in Tokyo or anywhere. It has to be nestled in here, overlooking the Seto Inland Sea and lying side by side with terraced rice paddies.

From July 19 to October 31, 2010 last year, the first Setouchi International Art Festival was held involving seven islands in the Seto Inland Sea, including Naoshima, Inujima, Teshima, and others. It was a huge success, attracting lots of visitors from Japan and abroad as well. The festival is planned to be held every three years. Remember to visit the Setouchi area on the next occasion.

However, I rather visit these special places after the festival is over. I did try twice when the festival was going on. But I was clever enough to avoid the worst crowd and enjoyed the visits fully.

Now that the festival is over and it’s cold in winter, not many visitors are expected. This weekend I took advantage of it and the forecasted good weather – it was indeed sunny and warm enough. I drove my Honda Insight, parked it near the port, went into the supermarket whose parking lot I always park my car in, bought food, ate it in the car, and took a boat to the islands of Teshima and Inujima on Saturday and Sunday, respectively.

Finally I can write about Teshima more after a long prelude. Thank you for your patience. Let me post a photo of the Inland Sea taken from the mountain top that a local gentleman kindly offered me a ride to when I met him and other islanders at the foot of the mountain after I climbed up the mountain path to see the grove of old Castanopsis trees (a kind of pasania or chinquapin trees) and almost came down to the foot. 

Here's Teshima Art Museum. Looks like a drop of water. Inside, you’ll witness organic flows of small fountains welling up from the floor, and white round or flat marbles. You’ll find small holes on the floor and marble pieces and water constantly twinkles out and moves in many forms and speeds according to the elements. They might join into one. They are alive. Trees and soil seen from the two openings are alive. Wind is alive. Birds chirping are alive. Notice you are surrounded by life. Symbolically, the water grows rice planted in terraced rice paddies nearby.

I should not reveal the secrets too much. That will spoil your fun and you’ll stop feeling and using your all senses once you know too much. Take time. I was there for an hour and a half. There’s only one room in the display building. The other building is a café. If you just take a look, you’ll be there for a very short time. But stay longer. Just feel.

However you can always invite me. I won’t turn down your offer. I’ll be your good spiritual helper.

Here’s the minimum info you might want to remember if you can’t take me with you:

In the center of the floor lies the work of the day. The small water patches stay there without flowing down.

Remember beads and three strings, red, silver, and gold. Look up and beads can be found and you’ll not lose them once you’ve known where they are.

Two ribbons are flattering in the air. Enjoy them. They are always seen.

But the strings you might miss soon after you see them. They are there even though you don’t see them clearly or lose track of them.

A reminder: Don’t accidentally step on the water patches. I unfortunately destroyed one and got my sock wet a little.

The museum has a cafe. Its exterior and interior look like this.

Teshima is blessed with water; that’s why there are rice paddies. Many were abandoned due to depopulation but volunteers came and restored some of the paddies. The terraced rice paddies near the museum will be colored gold in fall when the rice is about to be harvested.

Here's the official web site of Benesse Art Site, describing a bit about the museum. 

The ariticle first posted on my previous blog URL; slightly revised this time.