Yamaguchi noted overseas in the time of Xavier

Yamaguchi is a quiet city with the population of nearly 200 thousand. It has the least populated capital city in Japan. But once in the 16th century, around the time that Jesuit missionary Francis Xavier came to Japan, Yamaguchi was one of the most flourishing and cultured cities in the country and referred to as such in books and letters written by European missionaries. O-uchi Hiroyo, the 24th O-uchi lord from the 14th century, whose bronze statue stands on the premises of Ruriko-ji temple, laid out the city after Kyoto. He also introduced and promoted Kyoto culture and many nobles and literati sought refuge here, fleeing Kyoto in turmoil in the 15th century. The legacies from the O-uchi era remain here as temples, shrines, lacquer ware, and whatnot. The most notable has to be the five storied pagoda at Ruriko-ji temple.

In addition, the city has famed Yuda onsen hot spring which has 800-year-old history and many who actively worked to transform feudal Japan to a modern state toward the end of the Edo period in the middle of the 19th century came here for discussions, claiming that they were here for bathing.

The pagoda was completed in 1442 taking 40 years, dedicated to the 25th O-uchi lord who died in a battle. Along with the ones at Horyu-ji (Nara) and Daigo-ji (Kyoto), this pagoda is known as one of the three best of all the five storied pagodas in Japan. Note the wind bells on the so-rin spire in addition to those on the eaves. The Shin-bashira heart pillar stands from the podium to the inner edge of the spire, the most common way.

Besides the pagoda, the temple precincts and the adjacent mausoleum for the Mori clan are a lot of fun to explore. No admission fee for viewing and visiting the pagoda and all the rest.

The pagoda was built for the Ouchi; while the temple, Ruriko-ji, was built for the Sue, who fought against Yoshitaka, the 31st and last lord of the O-uchi in the 16th century. Later in 1690 the temple moved from the original place to the present site, because the initial temple built for the Ouchi was demolished by the Mori but the pagoda survived thanks to local people’s petition and stood alone for 84 years until Ruriko-ji temple moved in. Ironically and fortunately, the former enemies now stand side by side peacefully.

Try clapping, stomping, or jumping on the stone pavement in front of the stone stairs leading up to the mausoleum. Due to the repercussion, you will hear funny squeaking noise.

In 1907, Tanka poet WAKAYAMA Bokusui came over and his poem goes:

Early summer    An old temple nestled in hills    A traveler stands still at an old pagoda